In a first for Pakistani mountaineering, Sirbaz Khan has climbed all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks without supplementary oxygen. He accomplished this elusive achievement by completing his ascent of Nepal’s Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586m) at dawn on Sunday morning.
A Historic Summit in Alpine Style
Sirbaz stood atop Kangchenjunga — the world’s third-highest mountain — at 5:00 am local time (4:15 am PKT). Making this ascent all the more remarkable is that it was accomplished in proper alpine style: no bottled oxygen, light equipment, and no Sherpa support or fixed ropes.
With this last summit, Sirbaz now belongs to an elite club of mountaineers around the world who have summited all 14 of the world’s eight-thousanders without oxygen aid.
A Decade of Dominance in Climbing
Sirbaz, aged 35, is from the picturesque district of Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan. Since starting his climbing journey in 2016, he has shown unparalleled devotion and braveness.
His full catalog of 8,000-meter peaks is as follows:
- Everest (8,848m)
- K2 (8,611m)
- Kangchenjunga (8,586m)
- Lhotse
- Makalu
- Cho Oyu
- Dhaulagiri
- Manaslu
- Nanga Parbat
- Annapurna I
- Gasherbrum I & II
- Broad Peak
- Shishapangma
This feat also completes a dream that he shared with his mentor, the late Ali Sadpara, who perished in a winter climb on K2.
National and International Recognition
Messages of congratulations poured in from all over the country. The Alpine Club of Pakistan welcomed the climb as an icon of Pakistani resilience and determination.
“Sirbaz Khan has made the whole nation proud,” ACP Secretary Karrar Haidri stated. “Scaling all 14 highest peaks without oxygen is an heroic feat.”
Top climbers such as Naila Kiani, Sajid Sadpara, and mainstream politicians also hailed his legacy.
Inspiring the Next Generation
Sirbaz has long sought to place Pakistan on the international mountaineering map. His ascents were not merely personal achievements, but a quest to inspire younger climbers to tread in his footsteps.
While Pakistan’s flag flutters on top of all the world’s highest peaks, the name of Sirbaz Khan now stands etched in world mountaineering history for all time.
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